Big Bend National Park is one of the most remote places in the United States. The closest commercial airport is almost three and a half hours away in Midland, Texas. The nearest major city, El Paso, is three hundred miles to the northwest. It is literally the end of the road, with only the Rio Grande separating the Unites States from Mexico. The Big Bend region is not easy to get to, but man, is it worth it.
In 2012, Big Bend National Park was designated an International Dark Sky Park.
Measurements show that the region offers the darkest measured skies in the lower 48 states. But to this traveler, the name dark sky park is something of a misnomer. While the skies were dark momentarily after a brilliant fiery sunset, they quickly lit up with shining stars. Millions of them scattered across the horizon, sparkling and glittering like fairy dust had been sprinkled throughout the vast sky overhead.
At 800,000 plus acres, Big Bend is also the largest of the Dark Sky Parks. So large that the park contains an entire mountain range, the Chisos, within its borders. A hiker’s paradise, I headed first to the park’s star attraction, Santa Elena Canyon. Made famous by an Ansel Adams photograph, the limestone gorge can be spotted from miles away. It becomes clear how massive the canyon walls are as we get closer to the destination.
It’s a short hike (about one mile each way), skirting rock walls filled with fossils. The trail dead-ends into the Rio Grande, but hikers and would-be explorers shouldn’t stop there. My husband and I came prepared with water shoes, wading toward the center of the river to continue our canyon exploration. The region has been experiencing a longtime drought, and the water never got past mid-shin. Often, it was ankle-deep.
Don’t miss a trip to Boquillas, Mexico – be sure to bring your passport.
The only national park with a U.S. Port of Entry, U.S. citizens, can cross the Rio Grande via a rowboat. Once across the river, visitors can walk a dusty road about a half-mile to the village or pay an additional fee to ride on a mule, horse, or vehicle. Local guides are available.
Resist the temptation to over-plan your days. This park is enormous in scale, and with speed limits of 45 MPH throughout – along with many dirt roads, it can take longer than anticipated to reach your destination. A 4-wheel drive is unnecessary for most routes, but you’ll definitely want a high-clearance vehicle.
As the song says, the stars at night are big and bright. It would be hard to get deeper into the heart of Texas than a trip to Big Bend National Park.
As always, thanks for reading! XOXO
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